How to Properly Use a Jack Stand? | A Safety-First Guide

Getting under a car supported only by a hydraulic jack is one of the most dangerous moves in home mechanics. A jack can leak, slip, or release pressure without warning. Jack stands are the safety net that turns a risky job into a manageable one, but they only work when used correctly. This guide walks through the exact procedure—from surface prep to stability check—using the same steps official safety documents require.

The Core Procedure for Setting Jack Stands

1. Park on flat, firm ground. Hard, level concrete is ideal. Loose gravel, soil, or a slope can let the stand sink or tip.
2. Set the parking brake and chock the wheels. Place chocks on the opposite side of the end you’re lifting. If raising the front, chock the rear wheels.
3. Lift with the jack at manufacturer-recommended points. Never use oil pans, transmission pans, exhaust components, or plastic body panels—they aren’t reinforced to carry the vehicle’s weight.
4. Position stands under load-bearing structures. Frame rails, axle housings, and other reinforced points are correct. Center the stand’s saddle on the contact area.
5. Adjust the stand to the right height. It should contact the vehicle before lowering, with the stand aligned vertically and perpendicular to the load. Washington’s L&I guidance and OTC’s instructions stress keeping the vehicle balanced before lowering.
6. Lower the vehicle slowly. Let the full weight rest on the stands. Pull the jack away before getting underneath—Washington L&I is explicit about this step.
7. Test stability. Gently push or shake the vehicle. If it rocks, shifts, or settles, raise it again, reposition the stands, and reset before going underneath.

That last check is non-negotiable. A few seconds of pushing on the bumper can reveal a stand that isn’t locked or a saddle that’s off-center—both better discovered before you’re lying under the car.

Critical Safety Rules and Common Mistakes

Jack stands are support devices, not lifting devices. They hold a car up; they don’t raise it. A stand used beyond its rated capacity can fail catastrophically. Check that each stand’s load rating is adequate for your vehicle’s weight, and use a matched pair to support one end. AME International’s instructions are explicit: stands should be used in pairs for balance, and never beyond rated capacity.

The most common failures aren’t mechanical—they’re procedural:

• Working on soft or sloped ground where a stand can sink or tip.
• Using a single stand where physics demands a pair for balance.
• Placing stands under control arms, exhaust pipes, or body panels instead of structural points.
• Trying to lock a stand that hasn’t been adjusted to the correct height first.
• Trusting the hydraulic jack alone, or getting under the car before confirming the stands carry the load.

Also avoid stands on asphalt in hot weather—soft asphalt can sink under concentrated weight. Hard concrete is always safer.

Surface and Vehicle-Specific Considerations

Your owner’s manual is the final authority on stand placement. Jacking points vary by make and model; a structural point on one car may be a cosmetic panel on another. Ontario-style workplace safety guidance warns against non-reinforced components: they can collapse without warning.

Stand designs also differ. Pin-type, ratchet, screw, and collar-locking mechanisms each lock differently. Engage the lock exactly as the manufacturer instructs before lowering any load onto it. This guidance covers passenger vehicles and trucks. Industrial trailer-specific stands are a separate category with different instructions—don’t generalize car procedures to them.

Final Safety Checklist

Run through this sequence every time. It takes less than a minute and covers every failure point that leads to injuries:

1. Chock wheels and set the parking brake.
2. Lift at designated points with a rated jack.
3. Place stands in matched pairs under structural points.
4. Adjust to correct height and lock before lowering.
5. Lower fully onto stands, verify the lock holds.
6. Remove the jack and test for stability.

If your stands are worn, damaged, or have seen one too many hard drops, browse tested under-hoist jack stand options before your next job. The cost of a good pair is nothing compared to the cost of a failed one.