How to Waterproof Gloves | Two Methods That Work

Waterproofing gloves means choosing the right treatment for the material: wax for leather, and a spray-on or liquid treatment for fabric gloves.

Most gloves fail in the wet not because the material is bad, but because they were never treated or the treatment wore off. Whether you’re heading out for a damp bike commute or a ski trip, the fix takes about ten minutes and the supplies cost less than a replacement pair. The method splits cleanly by glove material, so the first step is knowing what your gloves are made of.

Choose the Right Treatment for Your Glove Material

The rule that decides everything: leather gloves get wax or cream, and fabric or insulated gloves get a liquid treatment like Nikwax Glove Proof. Mixing them up is the most common mistake, and it’s also the reason treatments “don’t work” for some people.

  • Leather or leather-rich gloves: use a leather waterproofing wax or cream. Nikwax’s guide describes applying the product like hand lotion, in a small amount, and rubbing it evenly over the glove. The company suggests using roughly a Hershey’s Kiss–sized amount per glove.
  • Fabric, nylon, or insulated gloves and mittens: use a liquid DWR-style treatment made for clothing, such as Nikwax Glove Proof. These products re-coat the outer shell so water beads up and runs off instead of soaking in.
  • Skip the treatment entirely on special panels: if your gloves have a soft nose-wipe or goggle-wipe patch, keep waterproofing product off it. Saturating those panels ruins their function.

If you’re not sure which category your gloves fall into, check the care label — it usually names the shell material.

Waterproofing Leather Gloves: Step by Step

Leather gloves need wax rubbed into the surface, with extra attention on the seams. REI’s expert guide lays out the order: clean, apply, rub in, remove excess, and air dry.

  1. Clean the gloves first. If the leather is dirty, wipe it with a damp cloth and let it dry. Treating dirty gloves seals in grime and blocks the wax from reaching the leather.
  2. Apply the wax in a small amount. Work it in like hand lotion, covering the whole glove evenly. Use about a Hershey’s Kiss–sized amount per glove to start.
  3. Press the wax into the seams. Seams and stitching are the weakest points on any glove, so run the product fully into those lines. Nikwax’s guide specifically calls out seams as vulnerable to water seepage.
  4. Let it sit for a few minutes, then remove excess. REI recommends waiting briefly and then wiping off the significant excess with a damp cloth. Too much wax leaves a sticky film.
  5. Air dry at room temperature. Do not use a heater, dryer, or oven. REI explicitly warns against machine washing leather gloves and against wringing them out — both bend and crack the leather.

The same approach works for leather mittens and leather-palmed cycling gloves, though the palm will wear faster and may need retreatment more often.

Waterproofing Fabric Gloves and Mittens

Fabric and insulated gloves take a liquid reproofing treatment applied to clean, wet gloves. Nikwax Glove Proof’s official instructions are straightforward and the whole process takes about five minutes.

  1. Test on a hidden area first. Nikwax advises this before treating the whole pair, in case the fabric reacts unexpectedly.
  2. Wet the gloves thoroughly. The treatment is designed to be applied to clean, wet gloves, so the shell absorbs the product evenly.
  3. Apply the product with the sponge applicator. Press the sponge in the center to break the seal, then spread the liquid evenly over the glove surface. Dab rather than rub to release the product.
  4. Wait two minutes. This gives the treatment time to bond with the fabric. Then remove the excess with a clean cloth.
  5. Dry naturally before use. Hang the gloves at room temperature away from heaters and radiators. They dry best upright rather than folded or bunched.

One treatment restores water resistance, but it will fade with wear and washing. Reapply when water stops beading on the surface.

What Waterproofing Can’t Fix

A treatment improves water resistance, but it doesn’t make gloves fully submersible or permanently waterproof. If the membrane is damaged, the seams are blown, or the gloves are worn through at the palms, no treatment will save them. The seams matter most — treat them thoroughly, and retreat the gloves when the beading effect fades.

And if you’re shopping for a fresh pair rather than reviving an old one, our tested roundup of waterproof bike gloves compares the models that hold up best in real rain.

FAQs

Can I use the same waterproofing spray on leather and fabric gloves?

No. Leather gloves need a wax or cream that conditions the hide while repelling water, while fabric gloves need a liquid DWR treatment that bonds to synthetic fibers. Using the wrong one usually means poor water resistance and, in the case of spray on leather, a stiff or brittle feel.

How often should I waterproof my gloves?

Retreat leather gloves when the surface starts to look dry or absorb water instead of beading it, which is often once a season with regular use. Fabric gloves need reapplication after several washes or when water stops beading on the shell. Heavily used gloves, especially ones with leather palms, need it more often.

Is it okay to put waterproofed gloves in the dryer?

Only if the glove’s care label explicitly allows tumble drying. Otherwise, dry at room temperature. Heat damages leather by cracking it and can melt the adhesives in fabric gloves. Air drying takes longer, but it protects the materials and keeps the treatment working.

References & Sources

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