Replacing trunk lift supports is a remove-and-reinstall job you can finish in about an hour with basic hand tools.
The struts that hold your trunk open don’t last forever—after a few years they lose pressure and the lid comes down on its own. The fix for worn-out trunk lift supports is simpler than most people expect. You’re not rebuilding anything; you’re swapping two gas springs, one at a time, and the whole process takes about an hour in the driveway.
What You Need For Replacing Trunk Lift Supports
The job requires almost nothing in the way of tooling. Most installations only ask for a flat-blade screwdriver or small pry tool to pop retaining clips, plus a basic socket set or wrench for any mounting bolts. Start by turning off the ignition and fully opening the trunk or hatch.
Before you remove a single fastener, prop the deck lid securely. AutoZone’s lift support instructions are blunt about this: do not rely on one gas strut to hold the lid up during the swap. A wooden dowel, a helper, or a broom handle wedged between the trunk edge and the body all work.
One more check: look for an electrical connector on the old support, common on wagons and hatchbacks.
Understanding The Mounting Hardware
Trunk lift supports attach to the vehicle through a handful of standard connector styles, and identifying yours before you order parts is the whole ballgame. The three you’ll most likely see are a retaining clip that pries off, a mounting bolt to unscrew, and a keyhole slot that slides off a stud.
Here’s a quick breakdown of what those look like and how to handle them:
| Connector Style | What It Looks Like | How It Releases |
|---|---|---|
| Retaining clip / cap lock | A wire or C-shaped clip holding the socket on the ball | Pry the clip off, then pull the socket free |
| Mounting bolt | A hex or Torx bolt through a flange at either end | Unscrew the bolt and lift the support off |
| Keyhole slot | A slotted hole that sits on a ball stud | Slide the slot sideways to detach it from the stud |
Match the new support to the old one before you install a thing. Compare the extended length and the end connector style, then lay the new part on the ground in the same orientation as the old one.
Removing The Old Lift Support
Work one side at a time—removing both supports simultaneously lets the trunk drop without warning. Start on the side you can reach most easily. If the support uses a retaining clip, pry it off with the flat-blade screwdriver. If it uses a bolt, break it loose with the socket. In keyhole designs, slide the slot off the mounting stud. Either way, detach the support from the vehicle mount and set it aside.
Handle the new part carefully during this step.
Installing The New Support
Position the new support exactly where the old one sat, with the rod down and the chamber up. Press the socket onto the ball stud until you hear it click, or reinstall the mounting bolt and retainer. Either way, verify the retainer is fully seated before you let go—a half-clicked socket can pop off under load.
Repeat the entire sequence on the second side, and then test the job. Close the trunk slowly, then open it again. The lid should rise smoothly without sinking, and it should hold firmly in the open position without any help from you.
If you’re still deciding which part to buy, our tested roundup of the best trunk lift supports on the market covers the top replacements to consider.
References & Sources
- AutoZone. “Lift Support Replacement Instructions.” Official step-by-step guide on removing and installing lift supports.
- American Products. “Gas Props Installation Guide.” Manufacturer instructions covering connector types and orientation rules.