How to Use RV Leveling Blocks? | Side-to-Side First

Leveling an RV is one of those small skills that turns a crooked, door-won’t-close campsite into a comfortable one. The fix for RV leveling blocks comes down to one order: correct the side-to-side tilt first, then handle front-to-back. Miss that sequence and you’ll chase the level bubble all afternoon.

The Right Order: Low Side First, Then Front to Back

Side-to-side leveling is the job blocks exist for. Winnebago’s beginner guide recommends correcting the low side with blocks before fine-tuning front-to-back with the tongue jack or landing gear.

For a travel trailer, that means placing blocks in front of the tires so you can pull forward onto them, or behind the tires if backing up onto them works better for your site. Fifth wheels and motorhomes follow the same idea: lift the low side, then adjust the front end.

Here’s the sequence that works:

• Park on the hardest, flattest ground your site offers.
• Set the parking brake and shut off the engine.
• Identify which side sits low and roughly how much height you need.
• Stack blocks to that height, staying under the product’s maximum.
• Drive slowly onto them, or lower the jack foot plate onto the stack if that’s your setup.
• Recheck the bubble; add or remove a block if needed.
• Set the parking brake again, chock trailer wheels, and unhitch or deploy stabilizers.

Stack Height and Load Rules That Matter

Stacking blocks too high is the fastest way to turn a leveling job into a hazard.

Two things people get wrong here: they exceed the stated height, and they confuse leveling blocks with stabilizer jacks. Leveling blocks correct tilt; stabilizers keep the rig from rocking after it’s level. One is not a substitute for the other.

Check the exact family you bought before stacking. When in doubt, the lower number is the safer one. On soft ground, set a base pad or plywood under the stack so the blocks don’t sink.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

The mistakes that wreck leveling setups are predictable, and each has a simple fix. Drive onto blocks slowly — a spotter outside helps more than you’d think, since the blind side of a tow vehicle hides the tires. Skip the spotter only when the site is empty and you can walk the approach first.

Chocks are not optional on a trailer. Camco’s guidance is clear: chock the wheels before you unhitch, because a trailer settling onto its tongue jack can roll. And remember that blocks handle leveling, not long-term support — once you’re level, the stabilizers take over.

After you’ve leveled once, you’ll know your rig’s personality: how many inches the low side usually needs, whether the door aligns, and which approach angle works. That familiarity cuts the whole job to a few minutes.

If you’re still shopping for the right set, our tested roundup of the best truck leveling blocks on the market compares weight ratings and stack heights side by side.

When You Leave the Site

Pulling out is easier than setting up, but it has its own order. Raise jacks and tongue first, release the parking brake, then drive off the blocks slowly and straight. Retrieve them before you walk the dog — a forgotten block under a tire makes for an expensive crunch on the next move. Stack them in their storage spot and they’re ready for the next site.

One final habit worth building: recheck the level bubble a few minutes after setup, especially on warm days when soft ground shifts. A quick second look beats waking up at 3 a.m. sliding downhill in bed.