How to Use a Tow Bar? | Flat-Tow Hookup Steps

Flat towing a car behind an RV or motorhome means connecting a tow bar from the towing vehicle’s receiver hitch to a base plate bolted to the towed car. The whole procedure comes down to leveling the two hitches, locking the tow bar arms to the base plate brackets, then wiring up lights and safety cables. Getting each step right is what keeps the car from damaging its transmission or coming loose on the highway.

What You Need Before Connecting a Tow Bar

Flat towing requires a vehicle that is specifically approved for it. Your towed car’s owner’s manual is the final authority on whether it can be flat-towed at all, since some transmissions and transfer cases can be damaged by towing with wheels on the ground. The tow bar system itself must match your exact vehicle application — base plates are built for a specific year, make, and model, and using the wrong one is a safety failure.

The basic components in any flat-tow setup include:

• Receiver hitch on the towing vehicle, rated to handle the weight of the towed car.
• Tow bar with a shank that inserts into the receiver hitch.
• Base plate brackets bolted to the frame of the towed vehicle.
• Safety cables or chains that cross under the tow bar as a backup connection.
• Wiring harness so the towed car’s lights work off the RV’s signals.
• Supplemental braking system (required in most states and recommended everywhere).

If you’re still choosing equipment rather than connecting what you already own, a roundup of the best universal tow bars covers tested options that fit multiple vehicle setups.

Step-by-Step: How to Hook Up a Tow Bar

Installing and connecting a tow bar follows a predictable sequence that works for most systems, though the exact locking mechanisms vary by brand.

1. Park both vehicles on a level surface and set the parking brake on the towing vehicle. This keeps the setup stable while you work.
2. Check the height difference between the towing vehicle’s hitch and the towed vehicle’s base plate. They should be close to level — one common rule is a maximum of three inches of difference. Use a hitch adapter if you exceed that, since a steep angle puts stress on the tow bar and affects how the arms align.
3. Insert the tow bar shank into the receiver hitch and secure it with the provided pin and clip. Locking pins add theft protection but the standard pin-and-clip is what most systems ship with.
4. Position the towed vehicle close enough to connect the tow bar arms to the base plate brackets. You’ll often need to inch the RV forward or backward while a helper guides you.
5. Rotate the tow bar arms into towing position if they fold for storage. Most arms swing out and the latch housings face upward when ready.
6. Attach the arms to the base plate brackets and secure them with the latches, pins, or lynchpins that came with your system. This is the critical mechanical connection, so double-check that each pin is fully seated.
7. Slowly pull the towing vehicle forward or backward until the tow bar latches engage fully, then put the towing vehicle in Park. Re-check every lock — a partially engaged latch is a common failure point.
8. Attach safety cables or chains under the tow bar, crossing them underneath so the tow bar is caught like a cradle if it ever detaches. Some installation instructions, including those from Blue Ox, specify crossing the chains.
9. Connect the electrical harness from the RV to the towed car’s wiring plug, along with any supplemental braking system wiring and a breakaway switch if your setup includes one.
10. Test everything before the first mile: turn signals, brake lights, and tail lights on the towed vehicle, plus the tow bar’s latch engagement. Make sure the steering wheel is unlocked and the transmission or transfer case is in the mode your owner’s manual requires.

That last drivetrain step is vehicle-specific and the one most people get wrong. Some cars need the transmission in Neutral with the ignition on, others need the transfer case in Neutral on a part-time 4WD system. Never guess — your owner’s manual is the only reliable source for that configuration.

Common Tow Bar Mistakes to Avoid

Most tow bar problems trace back to a few preventable errors. Skipping the owner’s manual check tops the list, since some vehicles simply cannot be flat-towed without transmission damage. Ignoring the height mismatch between hitch and base plate is next — an adapter fixes it before you drive, but nothing fixes a bent tow bar after a hard mile. Forgetting safety cables or electrical connections is more common than it should be, and both are required steps, not optional extras.

Improper bracket fit is another issue. Base plates are application-specific, so a system meant for a different year or model won’t mount correctly. And if you’re installing the base plate yourself, know that many installations require removing the bumper or rear panel — it’s not always a bolt-on job. Follow your system’s exact specs rather than improvising hardware.

FAQs

Do I need a braking system for the towed vehicle?

Most states legally require a supplemental braking system for flat towing once the towed vehicle exceeds a certain weight, typically around 1,500 to 3,000 pounds depending on the state. Even where it’s not legally mandated, a brake system is strongly recommended. It shortens stopping distance dramatically and reduces wear on the RV’s brakes. Many systems include a breakaway switch that applies the towed vehicle’s brakes if the connection ever separates.

Can any car be flat-towed with a tow bar?

No. A vehicle must be specifically approved for flat towing in its owner’s manual. Many automatic transmission cars cannot be flat-towed without damage because the transmission isn’t lubricated when the drive wheels turn with the engine off. Manual transmission cars and certain 4WD vehicles with a neutral setting on the transfer case are more often towable, but approval always depends on the specific year, make, and model. Check the manual before buying any tow bar equipment.

How often should I check the tow bar during a trip?

Inspect the connection at every fuel or rest stop. Look for loose pins, worn safety cables, and any movement in the tow bar arms when you pull gently against them. The electrical plug should stay firmly seated, and the towed car’s lights should be re-tested at least once a day. A loose latch can work its way free over miles of vibration, so the quick check at each stop is worth the two minutes it takes.